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| Getting that Surfing thing Wired! |
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its always frustrating when you're really good at one sport, and you "want" to be good at another.
Thats my surfing problem. Because lets face it, after 5 years of surfing, I'm no where close to where I am after 30 years of kayaking. In fact, as Steve Fisher put it:
"You'll never be the Kelly Slater of surfing, but you may one day become the Corran Addison of kayaking!"
With that in mind, I'm determined to become a decent surfer, and already my surfing has come a long way since I made River Suring 101. Much better use of the wave, more power, better ballance, smashing off the lip, power driving through the bottom of the wave, long floaters across the top of the waves... really putting it together. So here are some photo's from Chambly and Secret Spot from this week.
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| I wish I had photo's of this (they'll come) but I'm just starting to get airs off the lip (ollie airs about 4 to 5 inches above the lip - so still small, but getting there.
But even without that, this has me soo hoked. I'm almost as excited about learing to surf as I am about learning to surf the Squashtail - my new love in kayaking!
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| Look at that carve.... all the way along the very lip of the wave and then dropping into the far right edge and into the bowl and cut back across the bottom of the pit. Oooohhhhh yeah! |
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| One thing surfing is teaching me (and that I'm applying to using the Squashtail) is to use the entire wave. To think about the wave as a 3D thing - Forward and Back, up and down, left and right. and to use all sections and parts of the wave to the maximum, and to treat them all differently. You have so much less feel and control in a kayak than on a board in general that its hard to feel this and learn it, but now that I have learned this I am applying it to my paddling and I'm getting so much better so quickly, it's crazy. |
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| A big floater all the way across the lip, riding that fine line of being on top, and coming off the back side, and then dropping in on the far side! |
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| Dropping in with power and really driving the turn (no, I didn't fall or loose ballance - it just looks that way ;-). |
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| Heelside grab to stop the board coming out from under me... |
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| Man, I love that board! |
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| This is one of the things I've been tring to apply to my kayaking... really learning to generate power and speed throughout the turn... not just the beginning, but maintaining that acceleration from beginning to end, and really travelling all the way across the wave on edge, building energy the entire time. |
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| Ok, I know, I look silly, but I came out of that much faster than I expected! |
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